I wish I could bring you all with me when I go to the mountains, so you could see what I see and hear what I hear. But this time someone joined our group with a photographer’s eye and a camera to channel it. I’ll throw in some of his pictures below, but I wanted to give you some “mental snapshots” to go with them—thoughts and moments I’d always want to remember if I never saw this place or these people again.
The sky slowly starts to sprinkle with stars as the sunset glow dims in the west. We often look for planets or constellations half-remembered from childhood. With no light pollution for miles around except what can be produced by flashlights or anything run from a solar panel, we see more stars here than I’ve seen on all but a few nights of my life.
I briefly sit at a plastic table surrounded by plastic chairs filled with friends from a nearby mountain tribe. I am content to listen to the percussive rhythm of their language, set to a background of night noises: the muted crunch of gravel when anyone walks by, the evening wind blowing gently through the standing grasses of late dry season, the multi-layered soundscape of birds and bats and insects.
One of the men notices me looking at the stars and breaks off his part of the conversation to invite me to participate in English. I lower my eyes and notice his smile glowing bright in the late dusk like the stars overhead. I ask him if the stars look like this at his home. Of course they do. Why would they look any different? To dissolve the confusion I explain about Kampala city lights and smog. I gaze back up, trying to remember the stories of the Greek heroes and which patterns of stars belong to each one. I tell him my people have stories about the stars and ask him about his people’s star stories. But they aren’t about heroes. Their stories are about which stars to use to find home, and which ones tell you when it’s time to plant, or when the rains are coming.
The next time I see his smile glowing that brightly, he’s beaming at me and saying goodbye from the back of a truck bed, where he’s crammed in with at least 10 other people to start their journey home. That mental snapshot was a confused tangle of images in my head, like all the arms and legs squeezed into the back of that truck. A firm grasp that is the cultural equivalent of parting handshake from a calloused farmer’s hand. I don’t see the face it belonged to before the hand disappeared back into the tangled mass of people. Confused goodbyes shouted in English and Arabic and local languages. And that LED smile of his. I didn’t know it at the time, but he was glowing brighter than normal because a few hours before climbing into that truck bed, he’d become a new brother. One of the first of his people to follow Jesus.
Our plastic chairs are arranged in small circle, crunching in the dead remnant stalks from the last harvest we’ve laid flat with our fidgeting feet. The spotty shade from the dry scraggly tree we sit under has rotated a few degrees around the trunk without us, and I can feel my forehead starting to sunburn. I tug at my headscarf to rearrange it to protect my face a little better. The recorder clicks on an off, an off-kilter rhythm of their drumming Darfurian language, an Arabic translation of it, and my stilted clarifying questions in Arabic or English.
The story, about the bleeding woman from Luke 8, falls flat. It’s told accurately, with only a few minor errors to fix or details to clarify. But it has no life to it. I stare at the ground, thinking and praying about how to communicate and motivate them—how to explain to this group the massive weight of this story for women who will hear it, and how formative it can be for the men who should love them like Jesus loved this woman. I look at the shoes that make up the rest of the circle, all men’s shoes, and I feel that familiar separation begin, like one cell splitting into two under a microscope. A complete separation of two things that were once together and whole. My world is not theirs. And as much as I may more easily be able to relate to them as a cultural outsider, an even wider gulf exists between them and their women. Their women have been the target of genocidal war-time rape for two generations. And a woman who suffers like this must keep quiet and hide what she feels to be shame because if it becomes known what was done to her, she is often viewed as unclean. She is commonly seen as unmarriageable to her people and she can be cast out so her ‘defilement’ doesn’t negatively reflect on the community that couldn’t protect her.
I feel my “otherness” in a community that often treats women this way, and second-hand shame and brokenness bubble up inside of me. I gingerly speak to everyone’s shoes, not daring to make eye contact over this taboo topic but desperately wanting them to understand. “In your people, there are women like her. There are women who feel shame, who feel dirty… who have been raped…” I let the statement hang in the air. “They need to hear this story. They need to hear in their own language for the first time that Jesus listened to this woman.”
I keep staring at the shoes and the dry broken stalks. I’ve spoken in simple English because I didn’t trust my Arabic. And the team’s American coach has heard and now chimes in, “Do you personally know women in your town where you live who have been raped during the war?”
In complete shock I look up, eyes wide, and hiss under my breath in quick English I hope they won’t understand, “They can’t talk about it. It’s taboo. It will bring shame to admit that has happened to any woman they know.” But when I look up, I don’t see the separating gulf I felt between the men and me. The two young men aren’t staring away, outside of the circle, in embarrassment. They’re looking at me. And listening. With an effort of will, I pull my mind and heart back into that circle, back between two young men who want to become more like Jesus in the story, and want to do better as they grow up to become spiritual leaders among a tribe with growing numbers of new believers.
My teammate’s pastoral question optimistically crossed a cultural line and prompted them to question assumptions I feared I couldn’t address outright. Ready to let God’s word teach for itself in this vulnerable moment, I review the story: how Jesus made an important man wait while he listened to the woman, how he called her “daughter” like she was welcome in his family, and how he publicly praised her faith to be healed in front of the whole crowd. The next recording of the story I listened to was full of life and hope.
— By Miss Cellanea 